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Stutzmans Greenhouse

800-279-4505
    
6709 W. Hwy 61
Hutchinson, Kansas  67501
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Gardening Tips

Landscaping Tips & Ideas

You've watched the DIY programs on television, and you've looked at that broad expanse of your backyard that consists of a quarter acre of fescue, one lone peony bush and a propane barbecue grill all winter and have decided that 2010 is going to be the year of the backyard improvement project...but where do you start?  the following is a road map to help you arrive at your own personal oasis.

1.  Get a Soil Test
This can be done any time of the year.  Dig five or six samples from the area you are landscaping.  Dig them 8 inches deep and approximately and inch across.  A bulb planter or a trowel works well for this.  Put the samples into a clean cardboard box or a clean plastic pail.  Don't use a galvanized bucket, the zinc in the bucket can throw the test results.  Mix the samples, allow the soil to dry and then remove 1 cup to a zip loc bag.  Take to your County Extension Office.  There will be a small charge for the test (less than ten dollars) and it will take approximately two weeks to get the test results back.

2.  Amend the Soil
Your test results will tell you what amendments need to be made to your soil.  In most cases it will be organic material (compost), sulfur and nitrogen.  This may vary with your particular soil - don't guess - just get it done.  This step is so necessary because amending the soil will give your plants their best chance to grow to their full potential.

3.  Put the Right Plant in the Right Place
Know the sun, rainfall and wind conditions of the area you are landscaping, and know the zone for the area where you live.  Full sun is considered more than 4 hours of sun per day.  Afternoon sun can give different results than morning sun, so knowing which plants prefer the intensity of the afternoon sun or the more kind morning sun can make a difference in how well your plantings do.  Also, ensuring your plants happier.  Kansas winds can be drying and damaging, especially to tall, upright plants.  We can help you identify which plants will work best for your situation.  Also, we can help you choose plants that will give your garden a succession of bloom from early spring to first frost, and year-round interest and architectural value.

4.  Let Soaker Hose Be Your Hired Hand in the Garden
During a hot, windy Kansas afternoon, using an overhead sprinkler, you can lose as much as 70% of the water to evaporation before it hit's the ground.  Using soaker hose allows all of the water to reach your plants roots.  Soaker hose is inexpensive and is made from recycled tires.  Small holes in the hose allow the water to "weep" in a  slow, steady trickle.  One swath of soaker hose will water a 3 foot wide area.  Most plants require 1" of water per week during the growing season.  We can show you how this can be the simplest part of your gardening activities.  With a quick connect on the soaker hose at the end of your garden hose, it is as easy as clicking the connection and turning the hose on.

5.  Five (GOOD) Reasons To Mulch
We're talking a good woodchip or other organic mulch here - 
1.  It holds the moisture in
2.  It provides insulation to the root systems - both summer and winter
3.  It reduces the amount of weeds
4.  As is breaks down, it adds organic material to your soil, improving the overall condition of your soil
5.  It hides the soaker hose (gives landscape a finished appearance)
You want to get a good coverage of at least 2 inches to start.  It will settle some with rain and watering, so don't be afraid to add more.  I add new mulch each spring (about an inch in depth) after I add some Back to Nature Compost in early spring after cleaning up the dead annuals and trimming back the perennials.

6.  Wipe Out Weeding
Imagine a garden with no weeds - it can be done!  All it takes is an application of a granular product called Preen or one called Weed and Grass Stopper (Stutzmans carries both).  Start with your first application in very early march, and then apply every 90 days through the growing season.  (I also apply Zoom fertilizer at the same time, since it is a time release that is good for 90 days).  These products will keep any seeds from germinating in the areas where it has been applied.  It works great if you have elm trees or maple trees in your area too.

Following these steps will help you create a garden oasis where once a week watering, occasional dead heading and an application of weed control and fertilizer will make it look like you have a full time gardener, and will give you the time to truly enjoy the fruits of your labor! 
 
Integrated Pest Management (IPM)

 
 
The idea behind IPM is to do the least amount of harm to the environment and still reach the level of pest control needed.

How IPM Works
An IPM regime can be quite simple or sophisticated.
An IPM system is designed around six basic components:

Acceptable pest levels: 
The emphasis is on control, not eradication.  IPM holds that wiping out an entire pest population is often impossible, and the attempt can be more costly, environmentally unsafe, and frequently unachievable.  IPM programs first work to establish acceptable pest levels, and apply controls if those thresholds are crossed.

Preventive cultural practices:  Selecting varieties best for local growing conditions, and maintaining healthy crops, is the first line of defense, together with plant quarantine and 'cultural techniques' such as crop sanitation (e.g. removal of diseased plants to prevent spread of infection).

Monitoring:  Regular observation is the cornerstone of IPM.  Observation is broken into two steps, first; inspection and second; identification.  Visual inspection, insect and spore traps, and other measurement methods and monitoring tools are used to monitor pest levels.  Accurate pest identification is critical to a successful IPM program.  A thorough knowledge of the behavior and reproductive cycles of target pests is also important.  Since insects are cold-blooded, their physical development is dependent on the temperature of their environment.  Many insects have had their development cycles modeled in terms of degree days.  Monitor the degree days of an environment to determine when is the optimal time for a specific insect's outbreak.

Mechanical controls:  Should a pest reach an unacceptable level, mechanical methods are the first options to consider.  They include simple hand-picking, erecting insect barriers, using traps, vacuuming, and tillage to disrupt breeding.

Biological controls:  natural biological processes and materials can provide control, with minimal environmental impact, and often at low cost.  The main focus here is on promoting beneficial insects that eat target pests.  Biological insecticides, derived from naturally occurring microorganisms (e.g. Bt, entomopathogenic fungi and entomopathogenic nematodes), also fit in this category.

Chemical controls:  Synthetic pesticides are generally only used as required and often only at specific times in a pests life cycle.  Many of the newer pesticide groups are derived from plants or naturally occurring substances (e.g. nicotine, pyrethrum and insect juvenile hormone analogues), and further 'biology-based' or 'ecological' techniques are under evaluation.

IPM is applicable to all types of agriculture and sites such as residential and commercial structures, lawn and turf areas, and home and community gardens.  Reliance on knowledge, experience, observation, and integration of multiple techniques makes IPM a perfect fit for organic farming (the synthetic chemical option is simply not considered).

1.  Proper identification of pest - What is it?  Cases of mistaken identity may result in ineffective actions.  If plant damage due to over-watering are mistaken for a fungal infection, a spray may be used needlessly and the plant still dies.

2.  Learn pest and host life cycle and biology.  At the time you see a pest, it may be too late to do much about it except maybe spray with a pesticide.  Often, there is another stage of the life cycle that is susceptible to preventative actions.  Also, learning what a pest needs to survive allows you to remove these.

3.  Monitor or sample environment for pest population - How many are there?  Preventative actions must be taken at the correct time if they are to be effective.  For this reason, once you have correctly identified the pest, you begin monitoring
BEFORE
it becomes a problem.  Some of the things you might want to monitor about pest populations include:  Is the pest present/absent?  What is the distribution - all over or only in certain spots?  Is the pest population increasing or decreasing?

4.  Establish action threshold (economic, health or aesthetic) - How many are too many?  In some cases, a certain number of pests can be tolerated.

5.  Choose an appropriate combination of management tactics.  For any pest situation, there will be several options to consider.  Options include, mechanical or physical control, cultural controls, biological controls and chemical controls.  Mechanical or physical controls include picking pests off plants, or using netting or other material to exclude pests such as birds from grapes or rodents from structures.  Cultural controls include keeping an area free of conducive conditions by removing or storing waste properly, removing diseased areas of plants properly.  Biological controls can be support either through conservation of natural predators or augmentation of natural predators.  Augmentative control includes the introduction of naturally occurring predators at either an inundative level.  An inundative release would be one that seeks to inundate a site with a pest's predator to impact the pest population.  An inoculative release would be a smaller number of pest predators to supplement the natural population and provide ongoing control.  Chemical controls would include horticultural oils or the application of pesticides such as insecticides and herbicides.  A Green Pest Management IPM program would use pesticides derived from plants, such as botanicals, or other naturally occurring materials.

6.  Evaluate results - How did it work?  Evaluation is often one of the most important steps.  This is the process to review an IPM program and the results it generated.  Asking the following questions is useful:  Did you actions have the desired effect?  Was the pest prevented or managed to your satisfaction?  Was the method itself satisfactory?  Were there any unintended side effects?  What will you do in the future for this pest situation?  Understanding the effectiveness of the IPM program allows the site manager to make modifications to the IPM plan prior to pests reaching the action threshold and requiring action again.

If you are unsure of what you are dealing with, bring a sample leaf or branch of your plant to us.  We will work with you to identify the problem and the best solution for your particular situation.
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